Seven days in Kerala: a slow route

Kerala is long and narrow, so a good week is a line rather than a loop: start in the middle, climb into the hills, descend to the water and finish on the coast. The route below is a suggestion, not a promise about road times or availability, which change with weather and season. Check conditions locally before each leg.

Days one and two: Fort Kochi. Arrive in Kochi and settle in Fort Kochi, a peninsula where Portuguese, Dutch, British, Jewish and Chinese histories sit within walking distance. See the Chinese fishing nets at sunset, wander Jew Town’s antique shops and eat at a restaurant that serves the local communities’ recipes.

Days three and four: Munnar. Drive into the Western Ghats, with waterfalls and spice gardens on the way. Munnar’s tea estates, cool air and the high grasslands of Eravikulam National Park are the point; allow a slow second day for viewpoints and a plantation tour. The road is winding, so avoid night driving.

Days five and six: the backwaters. Descend to Alappuzha and spend a day on the water, preferably with a small canoe trip into narrow canals as well as a larger boat. If you stay overnight, choose a lakeside homestay or a houseboat from a licensed operator and agree the route in advance.

Day seven: Varkala. End on the cliff at Varkala, where the red laterite headland overlooks the Arabian Sea. Walk the path at sunset, visit Papanasam beach at dawn if you wish, and fly out of Thiruvananthapuram the next day.

A few cautions. October to March is the most comfortable season; the monsoon brings beauty and disruption in equal measure. Dress modestly at temples, carry cash for small purchases, and treat official booking channels, such as the district tourism counter for houseboats, as your first choice.